Homemade circulars for wood. Table for a circular saw with your own hands. Drawings, photos, advice. Simple circular from a grinder or a circular saw

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When buying a circular saw, the future master does not always imagine the amount of work that he has to perform with this equipment. This is one side of the problem. On the other hand, the foreman understands that it is better for him to immediately purchase a circular machine, but it is very difficult to find a convenient table that would meet all the requirements.

The circular table allows you to make a more accurate and even cut.

Thus, the idea is born to make a table for a hand-held circular saw with your own hands. In this area, true craftsmen have no limits.

General requirements for a circular saw table

A table for a working saw must meet several basic requirements:

support rigidity;
sustainability;
evenness.

Apart from these requirements, there are several necessary conditions, which must be taken into account when creating a machine for a circular saw.

Safety and reliability of the saw attachment.
Saw blade guard, which is often left unfulfilled.
Free access to the on and off button.

An additional set of functions of devices depends on the requirements of the master himself and his qualifications. This set includes accessories that:

help to perform an even longitudinal cut;
the same quality cross-cut.

The standard table, which can be purchased with the circular saw, is usually made of stainless steel. The sawing device itself is mounted upside down, an incision or slot is made approximately in the middle for placing the saw blade itself into it. Its width should match the width of the saw blades used. This gap should not be allowed to be too wide. In this case, shavings and other work debris will often clog the device, rendering it unusable.

As for the technical parameters of the saw, which will be used for machine sawing, its motor power may be more than that of a conventional hand saw. But still, do not exceed 1200 W, experts consider such a risk unjustified. After all, the more powerful the saw, the more durable and reliable the table is needed.

Industrial machines are made, as already mentioned, exclusively of metal, but their support is very often poured with cement to secure the device more securely.

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Required material and table assembly for hand-held circular saw

To make a table, you can take the following materials:

plywood 20-50 mm thick;
plexiglass;
fiberglass plates.

When choosing saws in a store, the buyer often pays attention to the immersion depth of this device, which means the maximum thickness of the material being processed. It should be assumed that using the hand saw for other purposes will cut off approximately 1 cm of sawing thickness.

Table parameters largely depend on the surfaces to be processed.

If it is assumed that the products will be bulky, for example, more than 2.5 m long, then the table will have to be strengthened with additional legs.

The circular table has several features in its assembly. The blank for the table top should be described in a separate paragraph.

So, for the table top, legs are made of the same plywood, but of greater thickness. To secure it, clamps are made along the table or crosswise. This will allow the table to be stiffer. The stability will be affected by the correctly selected length of the legs, the installation location.

The table can have various sizes, these parameters are determined by the wizard independently. For example:

cover 70x80 cm;
height 110 cm.

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Table lid: how much useful it can be

For the saw itself, depending on the selected thickness of the tabletop, a saw cut is made about 1 cm deep. The saw cut is made to fix the working table of the device itself around the perimeter. In order to do it, using a ruler, a simple pencil and the handsaw itself, mark the place where the device will be located.

There are several options for fixing the saw to the table. It all depends on what the goal is. If a person wants the saw to be freely dismantled if necessary, the mount must allow this to be done, but at the same time be reliable.

To do this, around the marked perimeter of the saw's working surface, set the bounding bars with grooves, without forming a closed frame. This fixes the hand saw. But such a setting is applicable for small volumes of work and low speeds of the disk revolutions.

A more reliable fastening looks similar, but with this fastening, the bars are smaller: there are not 4, but 6 or 8 of them, each fixed near a specific section of the bed, and if necessary, the master will have to unscrew the bolts near each such bar. Some attach the circular without wooden beams, screwing it directly to the table, making holes in the bed.

Turning the table top over, you can see the slot with the saw blade sticking out of it. The installation uses the locking function of the disk platform.

You can make a slot on the sawing table for a removable riving knife, which with a clamp will be attached next to the saw from the bottom side.

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Guides for longitudinal and cross cuts

The table must have guides, for their manufacture they use aluminum construction U-shaped rails. With an open edge, they cling to the table. Subsequently, auxiliary fastening parts will move along them, allowing more accurate cuts.

The rail along the saw should be built in first. The parallel guide bars will run along the edges of the table, perpendicular to the saw itself. The guides themselves are also made of plywood.

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How to make cross cuts?

To make cross cuts, a bar is most often used, which looks like a small table. It is inverted, has 2 parallel bases and a slot through which the saw blade can pass. If all angles have been met, the cut will be strictly perpendicular.

The solution for the cross direction of sawing can be another interesting option. Bars are attached to plywood (slightly larger than the table) from the bottom side. They should be positioned clearly at the width of the table. From the top of the board are attached 2 parallel plates, which are higher saw blade and have slots for its passage. The result is the same, but this solution is easier to implement.

In addition, the table top can be fitted with rulers on both guides.

A home-made circular saw is not so rare on the farm and, of course, useful. You can do it if you have only basic metalworking skills, a table adapted for a workbench and accuracy.

A do-it-yourself circular saw makes sense if you already have some kind of groundwork for materials: pieces of a steel corner, a rectangular shaped pipe and, especially, an engine. Or an angle drill ("grinder"). The motor can be found used on the "iron" market, where they are not uncommon.

Manual option from the grinder

A hand-held circular saw with your own hands is easiest to do if the farm already has a grinder. Just two simple improvements are needed: the sliding stop and the axial handle.

Sliding stop - two pieces of a small metal corner located on both sides of the working body: a disc with teeth, installed instead of an abrasive wheel. The gap is 3-4 mm on each side. The horizontal edges of the corners must be rounded from below so that they do not cling to the workpiece. The corners must be cross-linked in the front and back. To do this, bolts and nuts are suitable, and a package of washers will give the required clearance.

We put on a metal tape clamp on the grinder body; the clamping screw is located at the bottom. A double-folded strip of tin or galvanized steel with a hole for the rear bolt of the sliding stop is rigidly attached to it. Thus, the stop is fixed at the back. It is possible to make a clamp with the rear stop of the stop as a whole, but the thickness of the metal strip should be at least 1 - 1.5 mm. Shifting the washers providing the gap, they achieve the same gaps between the working body and the sidewalls of the stop.

In the gearbox housing of the grinder, we make two to four threaded holes for small bolts (M3 - M5). The gearbox must first be disassembled and identified at the location where it can be drilled. These holes are needed to attach a homemade axle handle. When using the standard side handle of the grinder, making an even cut will be difficult even for a physically strong man with persistent labor skills.

The axial handle is made from a metal tube or rod in the form of a horn directed upward or a palm-wide transverse bracket with some margin. We DO NOT splash the ends with which it will be attached to the gearbox and drill holes in them for the mounting bolts. If the attachment ends are splashed, the handle will bend from the force during operation.

If the handle is in the form of a horn, splash its far end in a horizontal plane and drill a hole in it for an axis of 4-6 mm with a margin, i.e. 6-10 mm. If the handle is a bracket, under it, in the same holes in the gearbox, we attach a piece of a bar or tube sticking out forward, and spill its end and drill a hole in it, as indicated above. Of course, there should be a sufficient distance between the bar and the staple - 100-150 mm.

Now we take a piece of steel bar 4-6 mm. This will be the adjuster bar. We bend one end of it in the form of a loop, spill it slightly and drill a hole under the front bolt of the stop. Picking up washers at the front end of the stop, we achieve a uniform gap width along its entire length. With a 6mm bar, you will most likely only need two thin washers, one on each side.

Cut a thread on the “tail” of the rod. The threaded tail will fit into the hole in the handle described in the previous paragraph. One nut is screwed onto it in advance, and after assembly - the second. By loosening and tightening the nuts alternately, you can adjust the cutting depth. That's it, the hand-held circular saw is ready to go.

Small table saw

It is easy to turn the manual one described above into such, by making a frame in the shape of the letter "P" from a round pipe or rod of 14-20 mm with a swinging arm on the crossbar. The lower ends of the bed are bent along the cutting direction to horizontal and are attached to the table with bolts or self-tapping screws. Additional struts can be made for stability.

A swinging arm made of a welded “T” pipe is put on the horizontal cross member. Its transverse part (horizontal stick "T") is cut in half lengthwise, and after putting on it is fastened with clamps. To the end of the vertical part "T", the hand saw described above is also pulled with a clamp.

Such a device can also be used as a cutting machine by installing a standard cutting disc in the grinder, but the thickness of the through-cut will not exceed 60-80 mm, depending on the diameter of the working body. To process “thick” lumber (timber, round timber), you need a “real” circular saw.

"Real" stationary circular

Do-it-yourself table circular saw - the design is quite serious and you need to take it up, after thinking everything through. Actually, stationary and desktop circulars are one and the same; the difference comes down to the height of the bed. To do this or that - depends simply on the nature of the workplace: its intensity of use and area. For occasional work, a not very heavy table saw is needed, mainly stored in the shed; It is more convenient for a master constantly working with wood to have a stationary one.

Design

The design of the circular saw is fairly well known and clear from the figure. It is only necessary to give some explanations regarding various subtleties. Let's start at the top.

Table.It needs to be covered with a sheet of tin or galvanized. Wood on wood or plastic will definitely rub, a wide shallow hole forms in the middle of the table. The cut will "play", but it will not work to make a blind cut of a uniform depth.

It is better to make the cross ties of the table from a steel corner 60-80 mm with a horizontal shelf outward. This makes it easier and easier to make the side stop.

Working body (toothed disk) and motor.It should not protrude more than 1/3 of the diameter above the table surface, otherwise the saw will cut poorly and turn out to be very dangerous. Therefore, if you need to cut a 100 mm beam, the disc diameter is needed at least 350 mm. But to drive such a disk, you need a motor of at least 1 kW; for a 170 mm disc - 400 W (0.4 kW). You need to immediately match the power of the available or available engine with your needs. For lumber of 150 mm or more, making a circular saw yourself is quite problematic.

Adjustable side stop. A good stop is obtained from a piece of flat steel angle 60-80 mm 300-400 mm longer than the table. One of the shelves, which will then be vertical, is cut equally on each side so that the remainder is equal to the length of the table. Flat "tails" are bent downward in the form of a horizontally located letter "U" with a width equal to the thickness of the table plus 10-15 mm. In the lower shelves "U" we drill holes for the M8 - M10 thread and cut it. We put the emphasis on the table and fasten it in the desired position with bolts. We set exactly the stop-limiter according to the template laid between it and the saw blade.

Shaft.This is the most critical site. The shaft must be sharpened in one setting and, together with the working body, checked in the centers. The slightest beating of it during work will increase and the saw will go haywire. A shaft made from a finished pipe with a loosely fixed disc is not allowed. The best option is a ready-made shaft with a seat for the disc. He can also be spotted on the "iron" market.

Bearingsit is better to use ball self-aligning ones. They have two rows of balls, and the inner surface of the cage has a curved shape in section. Any others in a homemade saw will quickly "break". Trunnions with bearings must be made with covers that protect against sawdust and dust.

Broadcast... The best option is V-belt. Rigid (gear) is dangerous. If a nail is caught in the wood, the inertia of the engine's massive rotor may cause the disc to fly apart. If one or both pulleys of the belt drive are made with a minimum inner diameter (4-5 belt thicknesses), then slippage will occur, and the elastic belt will play the role of a damper. A flat belt is not as reliable; their assortment is limited.

We select the gear ratio, knowing the engine speed and the maximum permissible disk rotation speed. It is indicated either on the disc itself or on the packaging. If the disk is used, we set the translational speed on its circumference 70 m / s (any disk will withstand this with a margin) and calculate the permissible revolutions by the diameter of the disk. A 400 mm disc at 300-500 rpm will cut well and will be quite reliable. For smaller diameters, higher revolutions are permissible.

Engine... The best option is asynchronous single-phase from the old washing machine... Such as are deliberately made for a homemade circular. The collector ones from the power tool are of little use: they give too high a speed, are not designed for long-term operation, have low efficiency and are sensitive to clogging.

A three-phase motor of suitable power can be used, but you have to fork out for starting and operating capacitors with fittings. Capacitors - ONLY paper and oil-paper (BM, MBM, MBGO, MBGP, etc.) Any others will not withstand the reactive power circulating in the circuit. Working capacity Ср - 100 μF / kW; starting Cn - twice as much. If, for example, a 600 W motor is used, then Cp \u003d 60 μF; Cn \u003d 120 μF. Operating voltage - not less than 600 V. The SB trigger is a self-resetting button. Under no circumstances use a toggle switch or a latching button! If you forget to turn it off, the engine may fail, and a fire may occur from prolonged extracurrent in the wiring.

The main component of a carpentry home workshop is a circular saw. It is designed for the primary processing of materials by manual or automated methods. Due to the high cost of factory equipment, craftsmen most often come to the conclusion that it is best to make this machine with their own hands.

Requirements for household circular machines

Structurally, a homemade circular saw should not differ from factory models. They consist of a support table, in the center of which there is a slot for a saw blade. In addition, the design contains measuring components, elements for fixing the workpiece and for ensuring operational safety.

Before manufacturing, you must familiarize yourself with the basic requirements for its components. It is important that they fit together not only structurally, but also in terms of technical parameters. To do this, you can take a diagram of a typical design of a factory woodworking machine.

Complete set of woodworking saw equipment:

table. Must have sufficient stability, the surface of the countertop is perfectly flat;
power point. The main parameters of the electric motor for disk rotation are power and number of revolutions;
additional components. These include stops for fixing a wooden blank, rulers for measuring.

The advantage of homemade models is the ability to choose its dimensions, performance and other technical parameters. In the process of drawing up a manufacturing scheme, you can choose the optimal table height, tabletop dimensions, and electric motor characteristics. This is not the case with hand tools for woodworking.

The requirements for woodworking discs directly depend on the parameters of the workpiece, the type of wood and the required performance speed. This is calculated on an individual basis.

Materials for making a circular machine

After drawing up the optimal drawing for the manufacture of stationary equipment with your own hands, you need to select consumables. To do this, you can purchase rolled metal products or use existing components.

The main problem is the choice of the power unit. Some recommend setting the factory model to manual circular saw... However, they often do not have the capacity to handle large volumes of wood. In addition, limiting the diameter of the disc will reduce the functionality of the equipment. Therefore, it is best to choose drawings in which there are two separate blocks - an electric motor and a shaft for mounting the disc.

The connection of the load-bearing elements of the desktop is done by DIY welding. Mechanical assemblies will not provide a proper indicator of reliability, since a backlash will form due to constant vibration.

table. For the legs, you can use steel corners 30 * 30 or 40 * 40 mm;
table top. It is made of dense chipboard, although experts consider the use of steel sheet as the best option. In this case, a lattice structure is made at the top of the table;
electric motor. You can use any household model of an asynchronous power plant 220 V, the power of which does not exceed 1.5 kW, and the maximum number of revolutions is 2400 rpm;
a system of pulleys for transmitting torque on a shaft with a disc. It is best to take the pulleys from the factory. A tensioning system must be provided.

To fix the workpiece along the length, it is necessary to provide a support bar. It should be displaced relative to the plane of the disc, thereby adjusting the width of the processed board with your own hands.

Before welding, all steel workpieces must be free of rust. Painting is performed only after the final manufacture of the saw-machine with your own hands.

Assembling a homemade circular machine

After preparing the components, you can start assembling the structure using wood. Drawings are drawn up in advance, which indicate all the parameters of the elements: dimensions, welding places, zones of mandatory processing.

First, the frame of the saw-machine is assembled with your own hands. It is necessary to provide places for fastening the shaft with the disk and the electric motor. The pulleys should be on the outside. This is necessary for the periodic tension of the transmission belts and the prompt implementation of repairs.

According to the diagram, a slot is made in the center of the tabletop through which the disc will pass. The edges of the material should be finished, but the table top should be flat. The plane of the disc must be strictly perpendicular to the table surface. Recommended slot sizes: width - up to 5 cm; length - up to 400 mm.

The motor control unit is located in front of the cutting area. This will help prevent chips from entering electrical components.

To get acquainted with an example of making a circular saw with your own hands, it is recommended to watch the video:

A circular saw is an important and necessary tool for many people, allowing them to independently engage in numerous types of household chores. It has a fairly high cost, so many people think about making it on their own. To do this, you need to prepare a workbench or table of the optimal size, replacing this tool, and you also need to have the ability to work with metal. During the process, you should be careful and careful so as not to harm yourself, as well as get the perfect work result.

Do-it-yourself circulars are made using the following components:

rectangular shaped pipe;
corners formed from steel;
engine.

How to make a hand saw from a grinder?

A self-made circular saw from a circular saw with your own hands is considered quite popular. The grinder is most often used for this work. For this, only some changes are made with a ready-made tool, which is equipped with a special sliding stop, and an axial handle is also installed.

All work on the independent creation of a circular saw from a grinder consists of the following stages:

A sliding stop is created on the tool, represented by two small corners made of metal. They are installed on both sides of the main tool body, represented by a disc with different teeth, used instead of the standard abrasive wheel. This leaves a gap of 4 mm on each side.
To prevent the installed corners from clinging to the part being processed during use of the finished saw, they must be slightly rounded from below. Front and rear, they are connected by special cross ties, for which standard fasteners are used - bolts and nuts.
A special clamp is attached to the grinder itself, made of a tape formed from metal. In this case, its screw tie should be at the bottom of the tool. A strip of sheet metal is fixed to this clamp, pre-folded in half, and it is allowed to replace it with galvanized. This element must have a special hole for fixing the rear bolt of the sliding stop.
Identical gaps are created between the stop of the future circular saw and its working body.
In the gearbox housing, which is an important element of the grinder, from 2 to 4 holes are created, equipped with threads. They are designed to use small bolts. For this work, the gearbox is initially disassembled in order to determine exactly where it is possible to create holes in its housing with a drill. It is with their help that the axial handle is fixed, which can be purchased ready-made or made on its own.
If it is supposed to carry out the axial handle on its own, then a metal tube is used for this, and a metal bar can also be used, which has an unusual curved shape. In the created handle, as well as in the gearbox housing, holes for fastening are formed, after which the fastening itself is realized.
Next, an adjusting rod is created, for which a small segment of a steel bar is usually used, and its thickness is usually 5 mm. One end of this segment is folded over, resulting in a loop. A hole is created for the front stop bolt. Washers are selected on the front part of the stop, which will allow you to get a uniform and optimal clearance in width. A thread is formed on the other side of the rod and goes into the hole in the saw handle. To do this, a nut is screwed onto this hole in advance, and as soon as the assembly is completed, the second nut is also screwed on. These nuts, which can be easily tightened or released, ensure the optimum and correct cutting depth.

Thus, the process of creating a hand-made circular plate is considered quite simple. There is no need to use expensive tools and materials, and all work is easily done on our own.

How to make a tabletop circulation hob?

You can even make a do-it-yourself circular table with drawings that are formed in advance, and are also high-quality and correct. With their help, it is possible to obtain a structure with high quality, safety of use and efficiency of work.

A full-fledged circular saw, formed on its own, is represented by a serious, complex and unusual design, which is created only after preliminary thinking over all its elements, studying the drawings and preparing materials and tools.

It is important to decide whether the circular will be stationary or desktop, and the choice depends on how often the tool will be used, and also what scale of work is supposed to be implemented with its help.

Standard circular saw design

"Real" stationary circular

A do-it-yourself circular table, the drawings of which are freely available, is created easily and quickly if you know its design well. When all the components are individually formed and prepared, the result is that they simply bond together securely and firmly to provide an optimal design.

The main elements of this equipment include:

Table. It is usually covered with a sheet made of galvanized steel or tin. It is not allowed to use plastic or wood for these purposes, since these materials will not be able to withstand the significant impact of other materials, therefore they will wipe out, resulting in deformations, bends and holes.
Cross-links. They are created for the table, and usually a steel corner is used for these purposes, the thickness of which is about 7 cm. These ties are equipped with a shelf that is attached from the outside in a horizontal position. In this case, it is easy to form the side stop.
The working body of the circular saw. It is represented by a toothed disc that protrudes beyond the table, as this allows a good sawing process on various elements.
An equipment motor that must be powerful enough. Its choice depends on the diameter of the saw. If it is supposed to work with lumber, the thickness of which exceeds 15 cm, then a very powerful motor is chosen, therefore the process of creating a circular will be quite difficult, since it is difficult to find this element in the public domain.
Side stop. It is made adjustable, and a flat piece of steel corner is used to create it, the thickness of which is about 7 cm.This stop should be about 35 cm longer than the table length.One vertical shelf on each side is cut off, so it turns out to be equal to the table length ... Tails that are flat are curved downward. Thread holes are formed in their lower shelves. The stop is attached to the table with bolts, and it is set exactly according to the template.
Shaft. It is an important piece of equipment, and it is advisable to purchase it ready-made so that it has high quality and reliability. Usually the finished element has a special seat designed for the future saw blade.
Bearings. They can be different, but self-aligning elements, which are ball-like, are considered the best choice. They are equipped with a double row of special balls. Inside, the section is curved. If you use cheap and low-quality bearings in a homemade circular, then they will not last too long. The trunnions are fitted with covers to prevent sawdust from entering the bearings.
Saw transmission. Usually a V-belt design is chosen, since if you choose a gear design, then it is considered dangerous enough for an amateur to use. This is due to the fact that if you use lumber that has previously been used for other purposes, then a nail or other fastener may fall into it, which, when it enters the gear, can cause the engine disk to simply fly apart.
Ratio. It is selected depending on the parameters of the engine, namely, on its speed and on the rotational speed of the disk.
Engine. It is best to choose an asynchronous motor that is single-phase. Typically, standard washing machines are equipped with such elements. They are ideal for a DIY circular saw. It is not advisable to use collector motors, which are usually installed in different electrical devices, since they give extremely significant speed, and also cannot work for too long, which is considered important for circulars.
A three-phase motor is often used, however, it is supplemented with a starting and operating capacitor, which are equipped with fittings. They have a significant cost, and they must be either oil-paper, or just paper.
An engine starting scheme that can be used for delta or star, and it should not need additional refinement.

Thus, the process of creating a circular saw on your own is considered quite complicated, however, if you know what basic elements the equipment consists of, and also choose high-quality elements that reliably and safely connect to each other, then the work will be done correctly on your own.

Read this blog post - be careful when experimenting and working with sharp tools. Write reviews and share tips for working with saws and circulars that you made with your own hands.

A DIY circular saw is a great tool to solve a large number of household and other tasks. In fact, it is not difficult to make this device on your own, even in that situation, if you do not have any special skills, the most important thing is to understand at least a little the principle of processing metal alloys.

The materials needed for the job can be found in your home workshop or garage. So, circular from a circular saw do it yourself is made of the following elements:

corner of strong steel;
rectangular shaped pipe;
engine.

The finished circular saw can be positioned on a workbench. If you don't have one, you will have to make the table yourself. The engine can be taken from an old walk-behind tractor or washing machine.

Circular from an angle grinder

If you have your own "grinder", it is very good. To create a "circular", you need to make an axial handle and a sliding stop to the unit. The design of the sliding stop includes a pair of steel angle pieces located on the sides of the saw blade. With the help of nuts and bolts, they are connected by a transverse bundle, and the gap between the working part and the sidewalls of the structure will be provided with washers.

On the "grinder", you need to pre-tighten the band clamp made of metal with a screw tie down. Then you need to attach the double-folded metal strip to the holes for the sliding stop. The stand and clamp can be combined, but in this situation the metal strip will be too thick.

Then, in the gearbox of the future tool, you will need to make several holes for the bolts. For this purpose, the body is disassembled, and the points where drilling will take place are indicated. With the help of the holes made, the axial handle is fixed, because the "standard" handle will not allow making a good cut, even if the master has very strong hands.

The handle is created from a metal tube or rod... Designs can be shaped like horns or braces. The ends of the element with which it will be attached to the gearbox must be provided with holes for installing fasteners.

You also need to make a barbell that will regulate the process. For this purpose, you need to take a piece of a metal rod, make a loop from one end of it, rivet it slightly and make a hole for the front stop bolt.

You need to make a thread from the other end of the rod, which will allow you to connect it to the handle. In advance, one strong nut should be screwed onto this thread, and after the structure is assembled, the second. By lowering and pulling them, you can adjust the cutting depth. By the way, if you use a drill instead of a grinder, you can make a similar tool.

Thus, you can independently make a good circular saw out of an ordinary grinder, with which you can cut various materials.

Compact benchtop machine

The above talked about how to assemble a hand circular. Now we will tell you how to turn this device into a stationary one. This process involves the manufacture of a U-shaped bed from a pipe, as well as the installation of a transverse arm. The lower ends of the structure should bend horizontally in the direction of the cut. They are bolted to the table. Stability is provided by additional supports.

Lever mobility provided by cutting a horizontal segment into two identical parts, which are fixed to each other with clamps. The saw blade is attached to the vertical frame element with clamps.

Stationary installation

A machine similar to factory models needs a competent attitude during the assembly process, so you need to take care of all the little things in advance. The desktop version of the "circular" differs from the stationary only in the height of the bed, which is determined by the peculiarities of work and the size of future workpieces. One-time processing can be done with an ordinary table saw, which after work can be easily removed to the pantry or shed. But a master who constantly deals with wood will need a stationary installation. Therefore, he needs to make a table for a circular saw with his own hands.

The circular machine has the following advantages:

Such equipment allows you to make better and deeper cuts.
The machine is much more convenient than manual equipment.

From the foregoing, we can conclude that circular saws, made independently, have a completely understandable and simple design, and the drawings that can be found on the vastness of the World Wide Web will greatly simplify the process of assembling equipment. Before making a "circular" on your own, all the necessary elements should be considered separately in order to understand the nuances of the functioning and installation of homemade equipment.

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