How to connect the engine to the washing machine vyatka. Diagnostics of the automatic washing machine SMA "Vyatka-Avtomat". Preparing laundry for washing
The engine is the "heart" of the washing machine, one of its main components, on which the efficiency of the equipment depends. The main characteristics of this part are power and revolutions per minute. When buying an automatic machine, we rarely pay attention to these parameters. Or maybe in vain? That is why we decided to talk about the power of the engine in the washing machine and what it affects.
Varieties of engines
The conversion of electrical energy into mechanical energy (drum rotation) in the washing machine occurs at the expense of the engine. Engineers have developed three types of motors that are used in automatic machines:
- asynchronous motor;
- collector motor;
- brushless motor.
Asynchronous motors can be two-phase or three-phase. Modern washing machines built after 2000 do not use two-phase motors. The power of such motors is 180-360 W, the number of revolutions is not large and does not exceed 2800 rpm during spinning, while washing the revolutions are about 300. In machines with such an engine, spinning is only 400-600 rpm, in rare cases 800- 1000.
They practically supplanted asynchronous motors, collector motors, which are capable of operating from both alternating and direct current. They are smaller and have electronic variable speed control. The main disadvantage lies in its design, which includes the presence of brushes, they wear out and become unusable. To restore engine performance, they need to be changed periodically. The power of the collector motors is 380 - 800 W, while the frequency of rotation of the armature varies from 11,500 to 15,000 rpm.
For your information! The power consumption of the motor for washing and spinning is different. The engine manufacturer writes this indicator only on the engine itself; you will not find these numbers in the instructions for the car.
The brushless motor or inverter motor first appeared in washing machines in 2005, and LG was the first to use it. Its difference lies in the fact that it is directly connected to the drum without a belt drive. It is more compact than the other two types of motors, simple in design, and has the highest efficiency. In terms of its power, the inverter motor is not inferior to the previous ones and is capable of spinning the drum during spinning up to 1600-2000 rpm.
Power consumption versus power
Energy consumption as a whole depends on the power of the washing machine's electric motor, in other words, how many kilowatts of energy the machine winds up per hour. This is what interests the consumer most often, and not the power of the motor of the machine. The energy consumption of the machine consists of: 
- the power consumption of the engine, during the entire wash it changes, during spinning more, while washing and rinsing less;
- power of the heating element, which on average ranges from 1.7 to 2.9 kW. Moreover, the higher the water heating temperature, the greater the power consumption;
- the power of the pump, which is 24-40 W, is quite enough for pumping out water;
- total power consumed by light bulbs, control module, sensors, etc. it is approximately 5-10 watts.
The power consumption of the washing machine is calculated for the "Cotton" mode, in which the water heats up to 60 0 С, and the machine is loaded to the maximum. According to this indicator, the washing machine is assigned, denoted by the Latin letter.
The maximum number of revolutions during spinning depends on the power of the washing machine engine.
The more powerful the engine, the more revolutions the drum will make, spinning the laundry. This indicator is reflected in. Automatic machines rotating at a speed of 1600 rpm belong to class A. But it is not at all necessary to buy such a machine, because even with a spin of 800-1000 rpm, the linen will be well wrung out without the risk of being torn.
Power of motors of different models of washing machines
Different brands of washing machines have different motors, so they have different specifications and different cost. Here are some examples.
- MOTOR CESET MCA 52 / 64-148 / AD9 - the engine installed on Hotpoin-Ariston and Indesit washing machines, its power is 430 W and 11500 rpm;
- MOTOR CESET MCA38 / 64-148 / CY15 - motor for washing machine Candy, Hoover, Zerovatt, power is 360 W and 13000 rpm;
- MOTOR CESET CIM2 / 55-132 / WHE1 - electric motor for washing machines Whirlpool, Bauknecht, power 800 W and 17000 rpm;
- WELLING HXGP2I.05 WASHING - motor for washing machine Indesit or Vestel, spinning power 300 W, washing 30 W;
- Elecronic Control Motor Haier HCD63 / 39 - engine for Candy and Haier cars, power 220 W and 13000 rpm;
- HXGP2I Welling Electronic Control Motor - motor for Samsung washing machine, power 300W.
So, automatic washing machines produced in the 2000s have a collector or brushless motor. Their power consumption may be different, but for the consumer it does not really matter. It is more important to know how energy efficient the machine is, and this can be found out by the energy class that modern machines have A or A +.
For repairs and other technical issues here. Repair of household and office equipment.
Motor connection Vyatka - automatic. Krasnodar Kuban.
The electric motor from the Vyatka washing machine is an automatic machine designed to operate in a single-phase network. Consists of two working and two reverse coils. Together with the capacitors, they create the direction of rotation of the shaft.
Various modifications of engines were installed at Vyatki, but their characteristics were approximately the same. They all have two reverse rotation speeds. 2200 rpm min. for spinning and 450 vol. min per wash cycle.
According to the number of connection terminals, the motors were 6-pin and 5-pin.
But their wiring diagram was the same - five-wire. In 6-contact electric motors, contacts 1 and 4 (the first two) are short-circuited, this is the common output of the connection to the network.
The second mains wire connects to one of the two capacitors. Moreover, at one end of the capacitor there is forward rotation, and at the second, reverse rotation of each speed. For a speed of 2200 rpm, a paper capacitor is placed at 16 microfarads, and at 450 rpm - 12 microfarads. It is advisable to choose the voltage of the capacitors at least 500 volts.
Engines start easily in both directions when properly turned on. The only thing to do when reversing the direction of rotation is to wait until the rotation of the shaft has stopped completely. The windings of these motors cannot withstand high currents.
Thermal contact, if the motor will work in frost, it is better to turn it off. They burst at subzero temperatures as well as overheating.
Schematic diagram of the washing machine "Vyatka-Avtomat"
| E1..E6 | Contacts on noise filter | MPS | Pump |
| D1C, D, D3L | Sunroof lock | R 1,2 | TEN (heater) |
| P 1,2,3 | Level sensor | MCML | Engine |
| TH1..TH3 | Temperature sensors at 40, 60, 90 degrees | MT | Command apparatus |
| SL1, SL2 | Indicators | Ez | Spark arrester |
| EV1..EV4 | Cold and hot water valves | C1 | Capacitor |
| a) "Vyatka-Avtomat12" | b) "Vyatka-Avtomat-14" | ||
| c) "Vyatka-Avtomat-16" | d) "Vyatka-Avtomat" with a hatch blocking device | ||
| e) "Vyatka-Avtomat" only from the cold. water | f) "Vyatka-Avtomat" with FPS filter |
The design of the washing machine "Vyatka-Avtomat"
| 1 - detergent dispenser | 2 - support | ||
| 3 - tank suspension spring | 4 - hose | ||
| 5 - solenoid valve | 6 - washing tank | ||
| 7 - pulley | 8 - filling hose | ||
| 9 - thermostat sensor | 10 - electric heater | ||
| 11 - electric motor | 12 - drain hose | ||
| 13 - a tube of the level sensor | 14 - shock absorber plate |
||
| 15 - capacitor | 16 - shock absorber spring |
||
| 17 - friction disc | 18 - electric pump |
||
| 19 - filter | 20 - drainage tube |
||
| 21 - level sensor | 22 - counterweight |
||
| 23 - command apparatus | 24 - indicator lamp |
||
| 25 - program switch | 26 - handle of the commander |
||
| 27 - the front wall of the case | 28 - machine body |
||
| 29 - hatch cover | 30 - housing cover |
||
| 31 - dispenser box | 32 - filling hose |
||
| 33 - solenoid valve | |||
The machine operates on a cold and hot water supply network and is designed for washing, rinsing and wringing out products from all types of fabrics. It has front loading linen. The machine provides a choice of washing modes with a set of a specific program using low-foaming synthetic detergents. Programs are typed with the control knob of the controller and special switches located on the front panel of the machine body. The machine is protected against water overflow and is equipped with a hydraulic filter to retain foreign bodies.
The connection between the filter cover and the body is hermetically sealed and can withstand a pressure of 9.4 kPa. The design of the machine ensures complete drainage of the fluid from the tank: the permissible residual fluid in the hydraulic system is not more than 500 ml.
Regulation of programs and temperature of washing solutions during washing, rinsing and wringing out products is carried out automatically. Manually only load products and detergents, dial the necessary program, turn off the machine and unload clean laundry.
The metal body of the machine 28 is made of white painted sheet steel. The body consists of stamped parts, riveted and welded together. From above, the body is closed by a metal cover 30, painted in white color and attached with self-tapping screws. Inside the body, a washing tub 6 is installed with a two-speed electric motor 11 of the washing tub drive mounted on it. In the upper part of the body there are: a block for connecting to the water supply network, consisting of two solenoid valves 5 and 33, connected by hoses 4 with a dispenser 1 of detergents, providing for the possibility of automatic introduction of detergents, bluing and starching agents into the machine; capacitor 15 for the electric motor; a liquid level sensor 21, connected to the lower part of the tank by a hose 13. On the upper part of the front wall 27 of the housing, a button switch 25 is installed, which serves to select an economical washing and spinning mode; to the right of the switch are the command apparatus 23 and a neon lamp 24 signaling the operation of the electric motor 11. The control unit is closed by a plastic panel, on which the handles 26 of the command apparatus and the switch 25 are brought out; here (on the left) there is a drawer 31 of the detergent dispenser and a panel with program inscriptions located under the handle of the dispenser drawer.
Washing tank 6 is made of carbon steel, followed by hot enameling. The upper part of the washing tub is suspended from the machine body by two coil springs 3. The springs are attached to the upper part of the body through supports 2. Metal springs are welded to the lower part of the washing tub on both sides: counterweights 22 made of concrete are attached to the washing tub. A tubular electric heater 10 and a temperature sensor 9 are built into the washing tub. A perforated washing drum with three ribs is installed in the washing tub. The axis of the washing drum through the seals in the cast support attached to the rear wall of the washing tub is brought out of the latter. A pulley 7 is put on the axle, connected by a V-belt to a pulley on the motor shaft. In the front wall of the washing tank there is a loading opening connected to the loading door by means of a fixed rubber collar of a special profile. In this part of the machine, an electric drain pump 18 and a removable filter 19 are installed, the cover of which is brought out to the lower part of the front panel of the body. The machine is equipped with a removable water inlet hose 8 and a drain hose 12. The presence of a rectangular hole covered by a lid in the rear of the machine and the possibility of removing the top cover provide convenient access to the structural elements and devices of the machine, which has great importance when repairing it.
Washing machines, like any other type of equipment, become obsolete and fail over time. Of course, we can put the old washing machine somewhere, or disassemble it for parts. If you took the latter path, then you might have an engine from the washing machine, which can do you good service.
A motor from an old washing machine can be adapted in a garage and made into an electric emery. To do this, you need to attach an emery stone to the motor shaft, which will rotate. And you can sharpen various objects about it, from knives to axes and shovels. Agree, the thing is quite necessary in the household. Also, other devices that require rotation can be built from the engine, for example, an industrial mixer or something else.
Write in the comments what you decided to make from the old engine for the washing machine, we think many will be very interesting and useful to read it.
If you have figured out what to do with the old motor, then the first question that may bother you is how to connect the electric motor from the washing machine to the 220 V network. And we will help you find the answer to this question in this manual.
Before proceeding directly to connecting the motor, you must first familiarize yourself with the electrical diagram, on which everything will be clear.
Connecting the engine from the washing machine to the 220 Volt network should not take you much time. To begin with, look at the wires that go from the engine, at first it may seem that there are a lot of them, but in fact, if you look at the above diagram, then not all of us are needed. Specifically, we are only interested in the rotor and stator wires.
Dealing with wires
If you look at the block with wires in the front, then usually the first two left wires are the wires of the tachometer, through which the engine speed of the washing machine is regulated. We don't need them. In the image, they are white and are crossed out with an orange cross. 
Next comes the red and brown stator wires. We marked them with red arrows to make it clearer. Following them are two wires to the rotor brushes - gray and green, which are marked with blue arrows. We need all the wires indicated by the arrows to connect.
To connect the motor from the washing machine to the 220 V network, we do not need starting capacitor, and also the motor itself does not need a starting winding.
In different models of washing machines, the wires will differ in color, but the connection principle remains the same. You just need to find the required wires by ringing them with a multimeter.
To do this, switch the multimeter to measure resistance. Touch the first wire with one probe, and look for its pair with the second.
A working tachogenerator in a quiet state usually has a resistance of 70 ohms. You will find these wires at once and put them aside.
Just ring the rest of the wires and find pairs for them.
We connect the engine from the washing machine machine
After we have found the wires we need, it remains to connect them. To do this, do the following.
According to the diagram, you need to connect one end of the stator winding to the rotor brush. For this, it is most convenient to make a jumper and insulate it. 
The jumper is highlighted in green in the image.
After that, we are left with two wires: one end of the rotor winding and the wire going to the brush. They are what we need. We connect these two ends to the 220 V network.
As soon as you apply voltage to these wires, the motor will immediately start rotating. Washing machine motors are quite powerful, so be careful not to injure yourself. It is best to pre-mount the motor on a flat surface.
If you want to change the rotation of the motor in the other direction, then you just need to throw a jumper on other contacts, change the wires of the rotor brushes in places. Look at the diagram to see how it looks. 
If you did everything correctly, the motor will start to rotate. If this does not happen, then check the engine for performance and after that draw conclusions.
Connecting the motor of a modern washing machine is quite simple, which cannot be said about old machines. Here the scheme is slightly different.
Connecting the motor of an old washing machine
Connecting the motor of an old washing machine is a little more complicated and will require you to find the necessary windings yourself using a multimeter. To locate the wires, ring the motor windings and find a pair. 
To do this, switch the multimeter to measure resistance, touch the first wire with one end, and find its pair with the second in turn. Write down or remember the resistance of the winding - we will need it.
Then, in the same way, find the second pair of wires and fix the resistance. We got two windings with different resistances. Now you need to determine which one is working and which is the launcher. Everything is simple here, the resistance of the working winding should be less than that of the starting winding.
To start an engine of this kind, you will need a button or a starting relay. A button is needed with a non-fixed contact and, for example, a button from a doorbell will do.
Now we connect the motor and the button according to the scheme: But the excitation winding (OV) is directly supplied with 220 V. The same voltage must be applied to the starting winding (PO), only to start the engine for a short time, and turn it off - for this, the button is needed ( SB).
We connect the OV directly to the 220V network, and connect the software to the 220V network via the SB button. 
- PO - starting winding. It is intended only for starting the engine and is involved at the very beginning, until the engine starts to rotate.
- ОВ - excitation winding. This is a working winding that is constantly in operation, and it turns the motor all the time.
- SB - a button with which voltage is applied to the starting winding and, after starting the motor, turns it off.
After you have made all the connections, it is enough to start the engine from the washing machine. To do this, press the SB button and, as soon as the engine starts to rotate, release it.
In order to reverse (rotation of the motor in the opposite direction), you need to swap the contacts of the PO winding. Thus, the motor will start rotating in the opposite direction.
That's it, now the motor from the old washing machine can serve you as a new device.
Before starting the engine, be sure to secure it on a flat surface, since its rotation speed is high enough.
Post Views: 2 668
One of the most common reasons leading to the failure of the "Vyatka-avtomat" washing machine is the failure of the electric motor (EM) winding in the command device drive. In repair shops, such a malfunction is usually eliminated by replacement. Moreover, they prefer not to deal with the renewal of a burnt out cheap winding and not even with a "mocking" electric motor, but with an expensive command apparatus (KA), which includes all this as a "monolith" that cannot be disassembled.
The complex unit is replaced entirely, no one cares about the client's financial expenses. It is not surprising that the owner of a deteriorated washing machine seeks to repair it on his own, regardless of time or lack of experience.
But L1, which only needs to be rewound, is nothing more than a coil (Fig. 1a) of a multi-pole electromagnet, mounted on an axis and being the rotor of an electric motor. Other factors that complicate the repair should also be considered. In particular, there is a gear at the end of the rotor. Of course, the ED also has a stator - a kind, stamped one. The electric motor is attached to the controller (Fig. 1b) with three pins entering the holes in the spacecraft body and slightly flared from the rear side.
1 - coil frame; 2 - winding; 3 - output (2 pcs.); 4 - electric motor; 5 - the body of the controller; 6 - axis of the program selection knob; sizes d, D and H - in accordance with the specific model of the washing machine
When disassembling this unit, make sure that the current-carrying conductors are not disconnected from the terminals. This precaution is dictated not only and not so much by the hassle of restoring inadvertently opened contacts, as by the difficulties in finding the disconnected terminals themselves.
Before removing the ED body, it is advisable to apply control marks on it and on the spacecraft body, which will subsequently allow to correctly assemble the entire structure with a new L1 wound independently. By inserting a screwdriver into the gap between the disconnected units and slightly pressing it, you can separate the motor from the controller and get the burned-out winding. But this must be done carefully so as not to lose the overrunning clutch - a small plastic part located between the ED body and the anchor.
The biggest inconvenience is that the winding is filled with plastic. And you need to make a lot of effort to, having removed all unnecessary, preserve the frame itself with minimal damage.
If this does not succeed, then you will have to glue the new frame according to the size of the old, standard one (see Fig. 1a). And as a source material, use a thin getinax or fiberglass. Dense electrical cardboard - press-board is also quite acceptable.
The factory (burned out) coil is wound with a very thin wire. Reproduction is absolutely the same, probably makes no sense. Moreover, the small thickness of the standard winding wire was most likely the cause of the failure.
A new coil is wound (until the frame is filled) with a PETV2-0.14 wire. The conclusions are made quite strong and flexible, for which they use a multi-core MGShV or its analogs. Otherwise, the ends of L1 may break under the influence of strong vibration loads arising from the operation of the washing machine. For the same reason, long, sagging conductors should not be left loose.
Since the resistance of the new L1 is much less than that of the previous one, which had a nominal value of approximately 10 kΩ, the repaired EM is connected through a current-limiting RC circuit (Fig. 2). The capacitor and resistor are attached (eg with insulating tape) to the wiring harness suitable for the controller. This is done taking into account the necessary vibration resistance and mechanical strength characteristic of units that are negatively affected by intense vibrations during operation. Particular attention is paid to ensuring the proper reliability of electrical connections.
We also have to take into account other "nuances". In particular, the pins of the ED body are slightly rasped before assembly, and then riveted to provide the necessary strength to the former "monolith": the engine-commander. Of course, we must not forget about the timely installation of the overrunning clutch in place.
A self-repaired engine works just as well as a new one, ensuring the normal functioning of the controller and the entire washing machine.
In addition to the burnout of the ED winding of the command device drive, another very tricky malfunction occurs in the "Vyatka-automaton": if the sensor fails, the temperature switch begins to boil intensively water in the tank. As a result, the front panel and a number of other parts of the washing machine, made of not very heat-resistant plastic, are deformed and fail.
The emerging emergency is exacerbated by a powerful heater. The 10-ampere current consumed by it is switched directly by the sensor - temperature relay TNZ type DRT-6-90. Perhaps the latter is designed for such a load, but it seems that it does not have any safety stock. Operation in an extremely heavy current mode leads to sintering of the sensor contacts, and the heater does not normally turn off when the water reaches a temperature of 90 ° C. Hence, the unacceptable overheating of the tank along with its contents. In addition, the contacts of the command apparatus themselves become unreliable.
The listed troubles can be avoided by changing the heater connection diagram by introducing the VS1 triac into it (Fig.4a). Since when working on the latter, significant power is dissipated, it must be installed on a radiator with a heat-emitting surface of about 500 cm 2. It is advisable to choose the triac itself with a margin of current and maximum operating voltage, because it will have to work at a fairly severe temperature regime, when the environment often warms up to 90 ° C. In addition to TS122-20 (TS122-25) indicated on the principal electrical diagram, less powerful semiconductor devices can be considered quite acceptable here. For example, TC112-16 triacs of groups 7 (12).
In any case, the triac is mounted on a radiator, which is screwed with two M5 screws to a 4-mm fiberglass plate. And that, in turn, is installed on the bracket (holder) of the main engine. Accordingly, two holes M6 are made in the holder for this (Fig. 4b). The radiator is securely isolated from the engine housing. And this is important, because the voltage between the case and the radiator can reach up to 220 V.
1 - main engine bracket; 2 - screw М6 (2 pcs.); 3 - insulating board (fiberglass s4); 4 - screw М5 (2 pcs.); 5 - radiator; 5 - triac
An additional 510 ohm resistor has a power of 2 W. For its desoldering, special racks are provided, fixed on the dielectric plate.
The entire structure must be designed to work in conditions of high vibration and temperatures, up to 90 ° C during boiling. Requirements for connecting conductors: cross-section (in terms of copper) - not less than 1.5 mm2, fastening - strong, tightening in the terminals - reliable, providing proper electrical contact.
A washing machine with such an improvement (Fig. 5) does not differ in any way from its standard counterparts. It has been working reliably for me for more than seven years.
V. SHCHERBATYUK, Minsk
Found a mistake? Highlight it and press Ctrl + Enter to let us know.