Insulation of facades of private houses with penoplex. Insulation of the facade of the house with penoplex: technology and features of installation, photo and video instructions. Penoplex - advantages and disadvantages, technical characteristics

Advantages and disadvantages of wall insulation with penoplex, technology for installing heat-insulating plates, the choice of auxiliary materials.

The content of the article:

Insulation of walls with penoplex is the use of a new generation of heat insulator, which will not only save heat in the room, but also save money. Plates can be fixed to a base made of any material, and then decorated with a topcoat of your choice. We will talk about the features of installing insulation in this article.

Features of work on the insulation of facades with penoplex

Penoplex appeared on the construction market recently. It has the properties of foam and plastic, hence its name. Manufacturing technology makes it possible to obtain a material with a closed-type cellular structure with good insulating properties. Unlike foam, there are no chemically hazardous elements in its composition.

Penoplex is produced in the form of 0.6x1.2 m plates with a thickness of 2 to 10 cm. Sheets are made with great precision and a high-quality surface, which reduces the time of installation work. The choice of thickness and density of the material depends on the climatic zones. The minimum sample thickness, which allows to ensure the permissible thermal insulation standards, is only 1.24 cm, which is the lowest value among other products. Sheets are sold packed in plastic wrap in 7 or 10 pieces.

Penoplex 31 or Penoplex 35 are used for insulating facades. The first type should preferably be mounted on the lower floors. The second is distinguished by its refractory properties.

The heat insulator is fixed with an adhesive solution. Correctly selected mixture allows you to attach products to the wall from any material. For insurance, the sheets are additionally supported by special dowels with wide heads. To get a good effect on keeping warm in the house, along with the insulation of the facade with foam, it is necessary to insulate the foundation and the roof.

Advantages and disadvantages of wall insulation with penoplex

The material surpasses most modern heaters in terms of performance, as it has the following advantages:

• The insulator has almost no moisture absorption. In the first days after the start of operation, it can absorb a small volume of water - up to 0.5% of the total weight of the coating. The value is so small that it is not taken into account in strength calculations.
• The insulation has unique properties due to the closed cells in its structure. The product will also protect the building from wind, rain and freezing.
• The special structure of the material does not allow moist air to penetrate to the walls and form condensation on a warm surface, prevents the appearance of fungus and mold.
• Penoplex has a low thermal conductivity coefficient, so the thickness of the insulation layer is much thinner than that of other samples.
• The manufacturers claim that the building will need to be renovated to replace the insulator in 50 years. The product possesses such qualities due to the chemical inertness of the components and non-susceptibility to decay. Immunity to moisture allows installation of insulation panels in any weather.
• Penoplex cells are very small (0.05-0.12 mm) and create a high density of 35 kg / m 3. A material with such characteristics can withstand high mechanical strength well, so builders are not afraid to insulate the walls from the outside with penoplex.

Of the negative properties, the following can be distinguished:

• The insulation melts at high temperatures, although no open fire appears.
• Mice and other small rodents like to settle in the panels, which spoil the material from the inside.
• The product is afraid of ultraviolet radiation, so after installation it should be covered with plaster.
• It is recommended to store it in a dark place, it crumbles in the sun.
• Sound and heat insulation of foam is weak, if it is necessary to achieve the desired effect, together with it, they use another material with better insulating properties.

Technology of insulation of the facade of the house with penoplex

Installation work is carried out in several stages. After leveling the surface, the sheets are tried on by installing them in regular places, followed by gluing. The last stage is the application of protective and decorative coatings. More details about the preliminary and basic works for the facade insulation are written below.

Surface preparation for gluing foam

The sheets are fixed to the walls with an adhesive solution, therefore, the base must be carefully prepared before work.

We adhere to the following instructions:

1. Clean the area to be insulated from dirt, dust, oil and other greasy spots.
2. Remove loose plaster and other loose material.
3. Dispose of paintwork mechanically or with a solvent.
4. Examine the surface for mold and mildew. If necessary, treat it with antiseptic, fungicidal and bactericidal agents.
5. Remove salt deposits mechanically.
6. If the walls are monolithic and cast in formwork structures, clean them of oil contamination and cover with a primer with the addition of quartz sand to increase the adhesion to the insulator.
7. Paint all metal parts on the partition with anti-corrosion paint.
8. Using a plumb line, check the deviation of the walls from the vertical. Apply a long rule to it and check for defects. Irregularities of more than 2 cm on an area of \u200b\u200b3 m 2 are not allowed.
9. Cover walls that absorb moisture well with primer fixing agents. Compositions must match the base material.

If alignment is necessary, outline the defective areas and select a rework method. There are several options for solving this problem: leveling with plaster, changing the thickness of the plates, using compensating spacers.

Aligning the walls with plaster is considered the best finishing option. An additional layer of mortar does not affect the durability of the insulator and does not reduce its performance. The solution hardens for almost a month, and during this time no insulation work is carried out.

A change in the thickness of the slab is made if the thermal performance of the material does not deteriorate. Before work, it is necessary to create a map of wall defects and, based on the results, order samples of the appropriate thickness. The method does not affect the quality of the insulation, but the installation time increases due to the fit of the elements.

Removing defects with leveling shims is considered a complex process and is designed for experienced craftsmen.

Installing auxiliary profiles

For ease of installation of insulating boards, it is recommended to use metal profiles that are fixed before the panels are laid.

At the bottom of the wall, plinth profiles are installed to support the insulation in the vertical plane. With their help, the elements are easily aligned during gluing. Also, products protect the material from rodents, moisture, mechanical stress.

When installing profiles, consider the following points:

• The fixtures are fastened with dowels every 30 cm. The hardware must enter a brick or concrete wall to a depth of at least 40 mm. If the base is made of slotted bricks, the hole should be at least 60 mm, if from foam concrete - 100 mm or more.
• The thickness of the profile should correspond to the size of the slabs; other options are not recommended.
• It is forbidden to deform the plinth profile when attaching it.
• For a snug fit of the device to the wall, the use of washers is allowed.
• The installation of overlapping profiles is prohibited, they are connected together with special strips. You can do without them if you leave 2-3 mm gaps between the products for thermal expansion.
• Use a plinth profile with a drip edge that draws moisture away from the wall.
• Install additional supports under the products before gluing 80 mm boards. After the glue dries, they are removed.
• Attach profiles with notches at an angle of 45 degrees at the corners.
• Attach special abutment profiles to window and door frames. They should be located at the same distance from the window opening. During installation, fasten the sheets close to the inner side of the profile.

Before work, mark the location of the suspended structures on the wall and fix the elements to which they will be fixed in advance. If you plan to revet the facade with siding or clapboard, mount a crate on the surface to fasten the cladding panels.

Selection and cutting of foam sheets

For installation, choose only high-quality samples. If the actual characteristics of the material do not correspond to the declared values, the slabs will swell, collapse and cease to perform their functions. It is very difficult to distinguish a quality product from a counterfeit product at home, you can only rely on circumstantial evidence.

Buy the product only in its original packaging, which guarantees its preservation for a long time. When buying, carefully inspect the wrapper - the film should be free of gaps. The presence of a barcode, a security label and a hologram of the manufacturer is required.

It is advisable to buy goods from well-known manufacturers, because it is impossible to check the main characteristics of the penoplex at home. Control of thermal conductivity and water repulsion can be performed only on special equipment in the laboratory.

Examine the sheets of insulation and select plates with the correct geometric shapes, without bends, deformations and damage. Check the sheet for compression by pinching it between your fingers. There should be no dents on the surface.

Slabs are trimmed for high-quality laying of material near window and door openings, balconies and other structures. Excess small parts are removed with a wide-blade knife. Large areas are separated with a hacksaw with fine teeth. Immediately before applying glue, it is necessary to lay the sheets in their regular places and check the quality of the cut.

It is forbidden to use pieces of material 200 mm wide at the corners of buildings and at the points of contact with openings in the wall. When determining the dimensions of the products, keep in mind that the sheets are connected at the corners by gearing.

At the tops of the corners of window and door openings, lay solid slabs, remove excess parts in place. Technological cutouts in the insulation should not coincide with the line of the corners of the opening, they are located at a distance of at least 200 mm from them.

The overlap of insulation on the boxes of openings must be at least 20 mm. If the openings of windows and doors are recessed into the wall, the slopes are also subject to insulation. Sheets must be cut with an overlap on the opening.

Preparation of adhesive solution

When choosing an adhesive, it should be borne in mind that penoplex is a type of expanded polystyrene, therefore it will be destroyed by formulations with solvents based on aromatic compounds, with the addition of formalin and its derivatives, with fuel and lubricating components. It is better to buy products specifically designed to work with this material.

There are several types of adhesives for fixing insulator sheets, each has its own purpose. For example, mineral ones are used for gluing panels to any dry surface, waterproofing ones - for attaching insulation to walls covered with bitumen.

One of the popular solutions for fixing penoplex is "Teplokley". The specific type of product is indicated by the manufacturer of the insulation in the instructions for the product. Correctly selected composition provides good adhesion to the substrate and a long service life.

The glue is prepared just before the panels are installed, because the properties of the mixture deteriorate after 2-4 hours. It is not recommended to dilute the frozen solution with water. It should also be borne in mind that low temperature and high humidity increase the curing time of the glue, and when the temperature drops to +5 degrees, it is prohibited to glue the panels.

To prepare the mixture, pour the calculated amount of cold water into the container and add the powder with constant stirring. Stir the solution thoroughly with a low speed drill for 5 minutes. Check the solution for lumps. Leave the liquid for 10 minutes. to ripen and mix again for 5 minutes.

Installation of penoplex on the walls

For high-quality adhesion with the adhesive, the surface of the plates is milled at the manufacturing stage. If there is no such treatment on the purchased material, sand the surface of the insulation with a coarse sandpaper.

The fundamental technology of facade insulation with penoplex looks like this:

1. Apply a strip of glue 8-10 cm wide around the perimeter of the slab and in the middle with puddles (2-3 pcs.) Up to 10 cm 2. Make sure the adhesive covers at least 40% of the sheet area. The layer thickness is 1.5-2.5 cm, it depends on the unevenness of the wall.
2. When installing in corner areas, do not apply glue to the parts to which adjacent elements will be attached. Areas with mortar should be located in places where dowels will be clogged. If the base is perfectly flat, the product can be applied with a 10 mm notched trowel over the entire surface.
3. Lay the first row of insulation on the base profile and check that the boards fit snugly against the limiting edge of the product. Protrusion beyond the profile indicates insufficient thickness of the adhesive layer.
4. If necessary, align the products by moving in the vertical and horizontal planes. Remove the remaining solution from the surface. It is not allowed to leave glue in the gaps between the panels. Cured mortar leads to heat loss and can affect the quality of the wall finish.
5. After leveling, tap the board to improve the adhesion. Check the flatness of the surface of the first row of insulation using a long ruler. Smooth it out if necessary with coarse sandpaper or a sander and remove dust.
6. All rows are mounted in a similar way, taking into account the rules for laying sheet insulation.
7. When forming corners, glue panels with an overlap, the length of which should be greater than the thickness of the material. Attach another sheet to the protruding part, then cut off the excess flush.
8. If there are cracks on the wall, vertical and horizontal lines of sheet joints should be located at a distance of at least 200 mm from them in any direction. In this case, buy sheets with a thickness of at least 60 mm.
9. Insulate the slopes with sheets 50 mm thick, while taking into account that an ebb tide will be installed at the bottom of the window.
10. Fill the gaps of more than 2 mm that remain between the sheets with wedges cut from the foam waste. Do not fill the cracks with polyurethane foam, sealant and other materials that can provoke cracks in these places.
11. If after gluing the sheets for some reason are not covered with a reinforcing layer or topcoat, they should be protected from exposure to the sun and precipitation.
12. After installation, the abutment profile must not be dismantled or moved to a new location.

To increase the reliability of fastening, the plates are additionally fixed with disc-shaped dowels, which are screwed or driven into spacers. There are several types of dowels, which are designed for different materials from which the walls are made. For example, for concrete partitions, concrete dowels "D 6 mm" 60 mm long or "D 8 mm" 80 mm long are used.

The fasteners are made of synthetic material with low thermal conductivity and a heat-insulating plastic head. Their number depends on their size and the properties of the wall. It is usually sufficient to fix the sheet at the corners and in the middle of the panel, but the supplier can make adjustments to increase the number of dowels.

The dowels are installed after the adhesive has completely dried. Make holes in the partition, the depth of which should be 15 mm longer than the dowels. They are drilled in the corners and in the middle of the sheet. To fix the panels to the concrete wall, it is necessary that the fasteners enter the hole to a depth of 45 mm, and into the brick - by 60-70 mm. Narrow slabs are fixed 200 mm from the edge of the opening or corner.

For fastening, insert the dowel spacer into the hole and sink the head flush with the sheet surface. Install the core inside the dowel and drive in completely.

Protective and decorative coating

Insulation needs protection from external influences. To this end, after insulating the facade of the house with penoplex, apply a layer of plaster on its surface, usually Ceresit or Econmix brands. For reliable fixation of the mixture, a reinforcing fiberglass mesh is used.

The work is carried out in the following sequence:

• Prepare the plaster solution thinner than required by the manufacturer's instructions.
• Cut a piece of netting 1 m wide and height of your choice.
• Apply the mixture to the wall, place the mesh on top and submerge it in the solution, leaving the edges free.
• Next, glue the next piece with an overlap on the first.
• Wait for the plaster to dry slightly and grout the surface.
• Apply an equalizing layer of the same compound, 3 mm thick.
• After complete drying, repeat the trowel.
• Any paint can be used, there are no restrictions. The main condition is that it should hold well and maintain its original appearance for a long time.

How to insulate a facade with penoplex - watch the video:

The technology of insulating walls outside with penoplex with your own hands is quite simple, for this you need to perform the work in stages according to the recommendations given. Due to the ease of installation and good insulating qualities, this method of thermal insulation is very popular.

Penoplex is widely used as a thermal insulation material. It is chosen by many consumers, since such insulation is used for both external and internal insulation. Installation technology takes into account a number of nuances that must be observed. In addition, some difficulties may arise, which can only be avoided by the advice of experienced professionals. Insulation of a house outside with penoplex can be carried out in two ways, each of which must be considered in detail.

Material description

Before installing the penoplex, you need to get acquainted with the main features of the material. It is important to know its characteristics and properties. Penoplex is an extruded polystyrene foam. Such material is produced according to a certain technology. It is based on foam. After heat treatment, the material becomes stronger and acquires high thermal insulation properties. They can significantly affect the installation technology, and determine the scope of the material.

These properties include:

• a small degree of moisture absorption;
• smooth surface.

Due to the fact that penoplex has a smooth structure, the material can be used in adverse conditions. For example, penoplex is great for facade insulation. However, such a material has poor adhesion. This means that it is better not to use the material when performing "wet" work.

The biggest misconception of newcomers to the construction industry is the wrong choice of work technology. Many inexperienced builders work with penoplex in the same way as with simple polystyrene foam. However, this does not mean that wet technology should not be used at all when using a new insulation. You can use a method that allows you to create a durable wall finish on top of modern insulation.

Newbies often want to know why not use plain foam instead of foam? After all, it has a lower price, and its adhesion is much higher. First, you should pay attention to some of the benefits of penoplex:

• The material is highly durable, due to which the finishing layer is more reliable.
• Penoplex is vapor-permeable.
• It has low thermal conductivity.

Therefore, it is still worth using such material for "wet" works. For dry insulation of a house with penoplex from the outside, used to create a curtain wall, you will not have to observe any special subtleties. Each of these methods is worth considering in more detail.

Wet facade

First, you need to figure out how you can insulate the walls of the house if you choose wet technology. This method is not fully understood by many. The main advantage of this technology is the ability to use it not only for thermal insulation of various buildings, but also for the insulation of apartments.

This solution allows you to make the appearance of the building more respectable. For several reasons, it is not worth using this technology to insulate wooden structures. Facade finishing using "wet" technology is carried out in several stages.

Preparation of materials

First, you should prepare the materials necessary for finishing. At this stage of work, it is important to choose the right adhesive composition. It is better to use special foam for this purpose. In addition, you will need the following materials:

• glue with which the plastering will be performed;
• adhesive primer;
• corners;
• deep penetration primer;
• reinforced fiberglass mesh;
• paint;
• plaster.

The facade should be insulated with foam with a minimum thickness of 50 mm. However, the boards should be laid in two layers. After collecting the necessary materials, you can start working. In order to properly insulate the house from the outside with penoplex, you must first carefully prepare the surface of the walls.

Preparing the walls

Before sheathing walls with penoplex, you should carefully prepare them. This work should be done in a specific sequence:

• first, the visors and antennas are removed.
• Then a solid foundation should be provided. However, if peeling areas of the plaster are noticed, they must be removed.
• Now the walls should be primed. This work should be done with a paint roller. However, you can also use a brush for this.

The primer should be applied in a thin layer, evenly over the entire surface. When the walls are dry, repeat the procedure.

Penoplex installation

After completing the preparatory work, you should start gluing the foam to the facade. The sequence of actions is as follows:

It is better to mount dowels at the joints. In this case, the hats should be drowned in the material. Slopes are not fixed with dowels.

To perform reliable insulation of a house, its base follows. In this case, it is necessary to observe a fairly simple technology. First, the foundation must be excavated. Next, it should be cleaned of dirt, and then - pasted over with insulation. After such work, the foundation is buried.

Insulation material surface

Expanded polystyrene has a smooth surface. Therefore, it must be roughened for subsequent finishing. Such work is performed in the following sequence:

• First, the surface of the insulation must be roughened. For this purpose, sandpaper is used. In addition, the surface should use a needle roller.
• An adhesive primer is applied.
• Further, the joints of the plates are filled with the previously mentioned glue-foam.
• Perforated corners must be glued to all outer corners. During the installation of the corners, you must use the building level.

Now you can start installing the reinforcing mesh.

Reinforcement

Outside, the finishing of the insulation begins with reinforcement. It is performed according to the following scheme:

• Reinforcement must begin with slopes.
• Ceresit CT 83 glue is diluted in water.
• Then the resulting composition is applied to the slope.
• A mesh is applied to the slope.
• Reinforcement of the facade walls is carried out in the same way.

After reinforcement, finishing is performed.

Decorative finishing

Decorative finishing should be done in a certain sequence. It is important to follow certain rules. The work algorithm is quite simple:

• First, the facade is treated with a primer. Then the surface of the walls is covered with a layer of plaster. The composition must be diluted in water according to the instructions.
• 5 minutes after the plaster has set, the surface must be wiped off with plaster bead.
• When the plaster is dry, use a paint roller. This finish should be two-layer. To ensure a neat coating, all layers are applied evenly.

At this point, the finishing of the facade with the "wet" method can be considered complete. To understand how to insulate a house made of wood, knowledge of "dry" technology will help.

Curtain facade

Insulation of a wooden house outside with penoplex is also quite popular. This technology involves the creation of a curtain facade. It differs in several important nuances:

• During installation, it is not necessary to carry out "wet" work, so the building can be insulated in any weather.
• When choosing this finishing method, you can choose from different finishing methods.
• This finish lasts longer.

"Wet" facade for insulation with extruded polystyrene foam, is not suitable for wooden houses. In this regard, many are interested in whether it is possible to insulate a wooden house with penoplex? This finish is possible, but it takes into account a number of subtleties.

The hinged facade is equipped in several stages. This work should be carried out in a certain sequence. First you need to select the materials, then the surface of the walls, then install the frame and proceed with insulation. To figure out how to properly insulate a wooden house with penoplex, you should understand each stage of work in detail.

Preparation of materials

This method of insulation involves the preparation of such materials:

• Brackets with metal profiles. Wooden slats can also be used.
• Vapor barrier film.
• Finishing material.
• Foam glue.
• Protective impregnation used for wood.

When the materials are ready, you can start preparing the walls.

Wall surface preparation

If the house is built of bricks or concrete blocks, the preparatory work includes the following steps:

• Dirt and dust are removed from the walls, after which they are treated with a special impregnation.
• Then the gaps are insulated. They are filled with a suitable thermal insulation material. Now the walls can be insulated.

After that, the frame is mounted on which the penoplex will be held.

Wireframe creation

The frame can be built in several ways. For example, it is worth considering the design made on brackets:

Wall cladding with foam boards is the most effective and simple way to insulate your home. The whole process is divided into three stages - preparation of walls, installation of insulation and finishing. The more diligently each stage is performed, the better the final result will be. You do not need special equipment for work - you can do it yourself with penoplex wall insulation using ordinary tools. External and internal thermal insulation have their own differences, so you first need to study the installation technology and decide which type of insulation to choose.

Insulating the walls outside the house saves space, which is especially important for smaller buildings. Particular attention should be paid here to surface preparation, because the strength and durability of the heat-insulating layer depends on this.

For external wall insulation, you will need the following materials:

• penoplex with a density of 32 kg / m 3;
• adhesive composition;
• primer mixture with an antiseptic effect;
• basement profile;
• dish-shaped dowels;
• cement-sand mortar.

The glue must match the type of insulation, therefore, you need to purchase it together with penoplex from one manufacturer. Since the absorbency of this material is too low, the use of an unsuitable adhesive may cause the material to peel off the wall surface.

Installation without tools is impossible, and therefore you should prepare:

• tape measure and level;
• metal brush;
• hammer pickaxe;
• construction mixer;
• scissors for metal;
• long-bladed knife or fine-toothed hacksaw;
• 2 spatulas - regular and notched;
• stainless grater;
• puncher;
• screwdriver with nozzles;
• grinding block;
• paint brushes.

Step 1. Cleaning and leveling the walls

It is only necessary to remove the old coating if there are peeling areas. The paint and plaster are removed to a solid base, the remains of the solution are knocked down with a hammer, the walls are cleaned of mastic and oil stains. Areas overgrown with moss or covered with mold are first cleaned mechanically, and then treated with 1-2 layers of an antiseptic primer.

A clean surface is checked for irregularities using a rule, deep recesses are sealed with mortar. Cracks in the walls and near window openings are blown out with foam, and then the protruding sections are cut off. If there are metal structures on the wall that will be hidden under the insulation, their surface is covered with an anti-corrosion compound. In houses made of gas silicate or aerated concrete blocks with unplastered surfaces and surfaces, the outer walls must be treated with a fixing primer. This will reduce the absorbency of the substrate and allow the insulation to be adhered to.

The final stage of preparation is the installation of brackets for attaching suspended structures. Window grilles, satellite dishes, air conditioners and drains must not be installed directly on the thermal insulation layer. Any holes, including mounting holes, reduce the tightness of the insulation and its effectiveness.

Step 2. Installing the basement profile

The base profile serves as a support for the foam and ensures uniform adhesion of the boards. In addition, it protects the lower edge of the insulation from external influences. The width of the profile must necessarily correspond to the thickness of the foam boards.

Fastening comes from the corner:

• a horizontal line is drawn along the wall 20 cm above ground level;
• the basement profile is applied to the marking and fixed every 30 cm with special dowels;
• check the tightness of the surfaces and, if necessary, use washers;
• at the ends, the profiles are joined by connecting elements, leaving a gap of 2 mm between the edges;
• corner profiles are installed on the corners of the building.

If there is no corner profile, make cuts in the standard at an angle of 90 degrees, and then bend and fasten the cut edges with connecting elements. When installing the basement profile, the elements must not be deformed and the adjacent sections must not be overlapped.

Step 3. Cutting out the foam boards

Before applying the glue, each board must be attached to the wall at the attachment point and, if necessary, outline cutting lines. At the corners of door and window openings, only whole slabs should be mounted, in which fragments of appropriate sizes are cut. When cutting the material, it must be borne in mind that each next row should be staggered.

The seams between the slabs must not be allowed to coincide. A hacksaw with fine teeth is more suitable for cutting whole pieces; it is more convenient to use a knife to cut small holes.

Step 4. Glue preparation

After cutting the boards, you should start preparing the adhesive. The ratio of water and dry matter must be indicated on the packaging by the manufacturer. Mixing components in any proportion is unacceptable. The water must be clean and cold; dry glue is poured into water and gently mixed with a construction mixer for about 5 minutes, until the mixture becomes homogeneous.

The finished mass is left for 10 minutes to swell and mixed again for 5 minutes with a mixer. The solution should be used within 2-4 hours, you can work only at a plus temperature above 5 degrees. You cannot add water to the finished glue or mix a new solution with a previously prepared one. Apply the composition to the foam boards in a certain order.

Step 5. Installation of plates

Plates that do not have factory milling must be sanded with sandpaper. If the walls are not too even, the glue is applied along the perimeter of the sheet in even strips of 10 cm. 2-3 thick strokes are made in the center of the plate so that the glue forms small puddles. The solution must cover at least 40% of the surface. If the walls are perfectly flat, a notched trowel is used to apply the mortar. In this case, the board is completely covered with glue.

The first sheet of insulation is placed on the basement profile from the corner and aligned so that it does not protrude beyond the corner of the house and the edge of the profile. If the material does not adhere too tightly to the edge, this means that there is not enough glue on the surface. After gluing the second sheet, you need to check the uniformity of the fit of the mounted area. A long, even strip or building level is applied to the insulation so that it overlaps both sheets. Alignment is carried out by pressing the material against the wall. Wipe off excess glue immediately.

You need to glue the boards tightly enough, but the glue should not get on the joints. If gaps have formed at the seams, they are filled with wedges cut from pieces of insulation. Corner sheets are first attached with protrusions to facilitate docking, then all excess is cut off with a hacksaw. The second row of insulation is staggered above the first.

When sheathing door and window openings, the plates are glued with an overlap of about 2 cm on the box.If the openings are located in a recess, the insulation is glued to the wall plane with a slight overlap, and then the slopes are closed with cut-to-size plate fragments. After joining the edges, the excess material is cut off. The abutment profile is screwed onto the door and window frames, after which the insulation is installed close to the openings. The profile is not attached to the lower part of the window frame, since there the thermal insulation will be covered with an ebb.

Step 6. Fixing the thermal insulation layer with dowels

72 hours after gluing the insulation, additional fixation is made with dowels. The consumption of fasteners is approximately 6 pieces per 1 square meter. For concrete walls, the length of the expansion part of the dowel is 45 mm, for walls made of hollow bricks - at least 80 mm, for solid bricks - 70 mm. Each slab is fixed in the center and at the corners. Around the openings and in the corner sections, the dowels are driven along the vertical and horizontal seams between the plates at a distance of 20 cm from the edge of the sheet.

Dowels "Termozit" - front dowel for fastening thermal insulation

First, a hole is drilled, the depth of which is 10 mm more than the expansion part of the dowel. With a hammer, they hammer the plastic fasteners into the hole so that the cap is flush with the insulation. Next, they hammer the core into the dowel hole, being careful not to damage the plastic head. If this does happen, the core is hammered to the end, and a polyurethane sealant is applied on top. After fixing the foam, the space between the basement profile and the ground is blown out with polyurethane foam.

Step 7. Final wall decoration

After fixing the thermal insulation layer, you can proceed to the topcoat. On top of the insulation, glue is applied and a reinforcing mesh is applied. Using a spatula, the mesh is rubbed into the glue, trying to distribute the composition evenly. After 24 hours, the surface is sanded with emery paper, removing irregularities. The next leveling layer is applied, then the wall is primed and covered with decorative plaster. If you plan to close the insulation with siding, then a crate of beams is mounted on top of the insulation.

The process of warming internal surfaces has slight differences. Preparation is carried out in the same way: they clean off the paint, whitewash and plaster, close up the cracks, level the plane of the walls with cement-sand mortar. Then the surface is treated with an antiseptic primer and dried. There is no need to install the basement profile inside the premises - the insulation sheets rest on the floor.

Due to the water-repellent properties of foam, the presence of a waterproofing layer is not necessary. It is also not necessary to attach a vapor barrier film over the insulation. After gluing and fixing with dowels, the surface of the insulation is covered with sheets of drywall or decorative plaster.

Video - Do-it-yourself wall insulation with penoplex

In this article I will share with you the secrets of facade insulation using the "wet facade" technology. This will allow you to effectively, and, most importantly, reliably perform external insulation and decoration of your home without the help of specialists.

Features of penoplex

The correct name for polystyrene foam is extruded (extruded) polystyrene foam. The fact is that Penoplex is the name of the company that publishes this material.

So, extruded polystyrene foam is made from the same materials as ordinary polystyrene foam (foam).

However, as a result of special technology and heat treatment, it acquires other properties:

• has a homogeneous structure and smooth surface;
• has a lower thermal conductivity than foam;
• is a more durable material;
• does not absorb water.

In general, penoplex is better than polystyrene in a number of parameters. At the same time, one cannot but say about one drawback of extruded polystyrene foam - it has poor adhesion, which is associated with its smooth surface. Therefore, this insulation is not intended for insulation using the "wet facade" technology.

Therefore, the big mistake of many home craftsmen is that they try to work with penoplex in the same way as with ordinary polystyrene foam. This leads to the fact that the finish applied over the insulation falls off along with the reinforcing mesh, as in the photo above.

The cost of extruded polystyrene foam is significantly higher than the cost of conventional foam. Therefore, it makes sense to use penoplex only where its qualities are really required, such as strength and moisture resistance. For example, a good solution is to insulate the basement with penoplex or the basement floor.

Insulation technology

The technology of facade insulation with penoplex includes six steps:

Preparation of materials

To insulate the walls with penoplex, in addition to the insulation itself, it is necessary to prepare the following materials:

• glue-foam for penoplex, for example, from the Penoplex company;

• dowels for insulation (umbrellas);
• fiberglass mesh;
• dry adhesive mixture for expanded polystyrene;

• adhesive facade primer;
• universal facade primer;
• plaster corners;
• guide (basement) profile;
• decorative plaster, etc.

For facade decoration, use quality materials from well-known manufacturers, especially for adhesives. Sometimes sellers in stores offer analogues from little-known companies, the price of which is much lower. However, when working with penoplex, even a slight difference in quality can be decisive.

Facade preparation

Before proceeding with the installation of foam boards, it is necessary to prepare the facade by following these steps:

1. dismantle all hanging elements on the walls - gutters, ebbs, etc .;
2. if there are areas with peeling plaster on the walls of the facade, they must be removed by capturing 15 centimeters of the surface, which is securely held;
3. further, the facade surface must be treated with a universal or reinforcing primer. If the walls are smooth, for example concrete, they should be treated with an adhesive primer..

Use a paint roller to apply the primer. Use it to apply liquid in a thin layer. After the walls are dry, repeat the procedure.

Now you can start installing the thermal insulation.

Wall insulation

The technology of wall insulation with extruded polystyrene foam looks like this:

1. first of all, you need to install a basement profile around the perimeter. Use dowel nails to fix it.
   Keep in mind that the profile must be located strictly horizontally, so be sure to use a level during installation;
2. now you need to apply glue foam to the back of the insulation plate. The glue is applied along the perimeter of the slab, as well as in the center;

1. installation of penoplex starts from the corner. The slab is inserted into the base profile and pressed against the wall. In this case, its position must be checked with a level.
   According to this principle, the entire first row is mounted. At the same time, try to arrange the insulation as tightly as possible to each other;

1. after gluing the first row, you can proceed to the second. Keep in mind that the plates for insulation must be staggered on the wall and bandaged at the corners. Thus, you need to paste over the entire facade;
2. then you need to carry out the insulation of door and window openings. To do this, use slabs 2 cm thick. Cut them to the width of the opening and glue with foam glue.
   To cut the penoplex, use a sharp assembly knife or a fine-toothed hacksaw;

1. after the glue hardens, fix the penoplex with dowels. Before mounting the dowel, set the drilling depth stop so that the hole is one and a half centimeter deeper than the dowel length. If there is no stop, mark the drilling depth with tape by wrapping it around the drill.

After making a hole, insert a dowel into it, and then hammer in the nail provided ... The dowel head must be slightly recessed.

Place dowels in the corner of each slab, and one or two in the center, as shown in the diagram above.

It is not necessary to fix penoplex with dowels on slopes.

This completes the foam insulation of the facade, now it remains only to properly finish it.

Surface preparation for reinforcement

The whole secret of the technology under consideration lies in the preparation of extruded polystyrene foam for subsequent finishing.

The instruction looks like this:

1. if there are gaps between the insulation plates, they must be filled with glue foam;
2. then make sure all wall plugs are installed correctly. If caps are found that protrude above the surface of the insulation, they must be cut off with an assembly knife, and new dowels should be installed next to them;

1. further, the surface of the wall must be treated with sandpaper, a special foam float or even a needle roller. The task of this operation is to roughen the surface, which will improve the adhesion with the adhesive;
2. after that, the penoplex must be covered with two layers of an adhesive primer, which will also improve the adhesion between materials;

1. at the end of the work, you need to glue the plaster corners to all outer corners using a dry adhesive diluted in water. When installing the corners, be sure to check their position with a level.

Reinforcement

Penoplex reinforcement is carried out as follows:

1. first of all, dilute the glue dry mixture in water according to the instructions from the manufacturer;
2. start by reinforcing window and door openings. To do this, cut the mesh so that it is overlapped and twisted at the corners.
   To glue the mesh, apply the adhesive solution to the slope using a notched trowel. Then attach the mesh, align it, and run over it with an ordinary spatula so that it is completely covered with glue;
3. using the same principle, glue the fiberglass mesh to the walls of the facade with your own hands;
4. after the surface has dried, apply a thin layer of a thinner adhesive solution to the slopes and walls. The task of this layer is to eliminate small irregularities on the surface of the walls..

Decorative finishing

Now you need to wait for the glue to dry and apply a decorative finish.

The work is performed in the following sequence:

1. treat the facade surface with a universal primer as described above;
2. after the primer has dried, the decorative plaster must be diluted in water, following the recommendations from the manufacturer;
3. then the composition is applied to the surface with a thin layer;

1. a few minutes after applying the plaster, it must be wiped with a small one, making circular or reciprocating movements. This procedure will give the surface a certain texture.
   Keep in mind that decorative plaster must be applied in one pass within one wall. Otherwise, the joint will be conspicuous;

1. now the facade needs to be painted using the facade paint. The coating is applied in a thin layer using a facade paint roller. After the first layer of paint has dried, the procedure must be repeated.

Often, home craftsmen ask on the forums - how to close the end of the insulation when insulating the wall of an apartment building? For these purposes, you can use ebb tides that are installed above the basements of houses.

This completes the insulation of the walls outside with penoplex.

Output

Penoplex can be successfully used to insulate the facade, however, for this it is necessary to strictly observe the above technology. You can additionally familiarize yourself with it from the video in this article. If you do not understand any points, leave questions in the comments, and I will answer you as soon as possible.

It is these qualities that make it possible to use this material as floor and wall sheathing, as well as to use

The special effectiveness of the finishing material lies in the correct installation of the structure, because if you carry out the wrong laying of the foam, it can quickly lose its shape and its proper qualities.

Therefore, before installing the facade, it is necessary to study the technology of laying this insulation material so that the repair work goes quickly and without any problems.

Preparatory stage of installation

Like many renovation work, preparing a room for the installation of finishing material should begin with cleaning the wall covering from dirt, dust and remnants of previous finishing.

For home insulation with penoplex, it is important that the wall surface is as flat as possible. If the walls you insulate have bumps or grooves, it is recommended to cover them with plaster or a layer of primer.

Materials and tools

• dowels;
• plaster;
• nails-fasteners;
• primer;
• thin cord (preferably nylon).

You will also need tools when finishing the wall covering:

• saw;
• level;
• screwdriver;
• putty knife.

Experts advise: Prepare all materials and tools in advance so that during the installation of the facade you have everything at hand.

Penoplex installation

The installation of this finishing material is carried out in several stages, each of which plays an important role in all repair work:

1. 1. Processing the front wall of the house. Before you need to prepare the wall. That is, you need to clean it of dirt, protruding fittings, nails, and so on. The surface of the front wall, if necessary, can be sanded. After that we dilute the putty solution and cover small cracks, pits and other damage to the wall with it. Then, using a nylon cord, we check the evenness of the wall - it is important to carefully consider this stage, since an uneven wall covering can ruin the penoplex.

1. 1. Preparation of glue. How to properly dilute the glue is written on the package. It is important that it does not turn out to be liquid - in this case, the panels will not stick to the wall, and the quality of the foam will deteriorate significantly.

1. 1. Applying glue to the material. Applying glue to penoplex should be done with a notched trowel. In this case, be sure to make sure that the glue base is evenly spread over the entire sheet. Also pay special attention to the corners.

1. Installation of insulation in two layers. The most effective insulation will be obtained if the installation of the foam is carried out in two layers. If you want to make a two-layer installation of this insulation, the first layer must not be glued, but simply nailed to the wall.

That's all - the installation of the foam on the facade is over. You just have to finish the facade, and you will be able to appreciate the quality of your work.

Facade finishing

After laying the slabs, they must be protected from precipitation. To do this, you need to carry out finishing work using any decorative materials. These include:

• profiled metal;
• ceramic tiles;
• lining;
• paint;
• plastic profiles.

You need to finish the facade depending on the decorative material you choose. For example, a plastic profile is attached to the walls using self-tapping screws or dowels; paint is applied directly to the insulation. In any case, you must first choose the material and only then finish the walls.

See overview video about the facade insulation with foam: